Borderlands & Hot Springs

I had such grand plans for long rides on the AZT and in Bisbee with Carey, but 40-degree sideways rain over the course of 3 days killed every single one of those plans. I know this will come as a shock, but we decided to drink and eat away our disappointment. Beers at the Lumber Co., margaritas and pizza (a winning combination) at Velvet Elvis, followed by an amazing breakfast at Gathering Grounds redeemed our time in Patagonia, AZ. The weather over in Bisbee wasn't any better, so we were forced to do a pub crawl there, too. Guess I'll have to go back to actually ride those sections of the AZT at some point.

*The courtyard out back with live music is a must-go if you're down that way.*

*Carey, Ila & me. Best margarita in a long time!*

New Mexico

I didn't have the patience to stick around another day in Bisbee in hopes that the weather would change - I just needed to be warm. So off I went to Faywood Hot Springs, just north of the Gila National Forest in New Mexico. This wasn't a planned stop on this trip, although it's been on my radar for a few years. It's a really simple campground on a natural mineral hot spring, with several communal hot springs pools - both clothing optional and clothing required. I had only planned to stay one night, but it was such a tranquil, healing environment that I kept extending my stay.

*Clothing optional or clothing required? Only I know.*

*Resident peacocks (what is it with hot springs and peacocks anyway?)*

The girls were pretty happy with the off-leash hiking trails (and resident cows), which we walked a few times a day. At the top of the hill on the property was a "sacred circle" of rocks (think mini-Stonehenge) and a labyrinth for walking meditation.

*The resident cows communicating some kind of warning to Kiva.*

The City of Rocks State Park was just 2 miles from the campground, so on the first warm day, I rode my bike up there and around the "mountain bike" (more like gravel path) trails in the park. It didn't blow me away, but it was a good excuse to put the saddle between my legs and pedal, which is ALWAYS welcome.

I also ventured up to Silver City one afternoon. I had been there ten years ago and was curious to see how it had changed. I'd heard lots of good things about it becoming the new place to which all the artists were moving (a "new Santa Fe"??). My take: its a city in transition that could go either way. There were lots of really cool, unpretentious art galleries and studio workspaces, but also lots of boarded-up storefronts and seemingly abandoned buildings. But, as I love to do, I walked around talking to the artists and listening to their stories. I sincerely hope this little city finds its way so that it can support a creative community without becoming another Santa Fe (one is enough, thank you very much).

Maybe the best find in Silver City (other than the Tractor Supply that filled my propane tanks) was the speakeasy. One of the artists at Light Art Space gave me specific instructions on how to find it, and I was so glad he did. It was one of those places that made a fantastic Old Fashioned, and I had a wonderful conversation with two university employees who were sitting at the bar. We talked about the University accreditation process, what brought each of them to New Mexico, my trip, and how three women in their 50's ended up knowing that we were living the best goddamned time in our lives, despite public opinion.

By Friday, it was time to move down to Las Cruces, New Mexico. It had been way too long since I had been on real singletrack, and I'm pretty unlovable when that happens. After one last soak, and a few loads of laundry, I hit the road.

I knew where I wanted to ride, and my budget dictated that I find somewhere free to camp. Carey told me that there was plenty of dispersed camping just past the trailhead. I did my research (i.e., looked at Google Maps Satellite view) and it looked like she was right. What I didn't factor in was that she has a truck camper, not a pull-behind travel trailer. There was one other camper in the TH parking lot, and I considered just camping there. But no......I had to be adventurous and find that "perfect" dispersed camping spot on the BLM land past the parking lot. About 100 yards in, it was clear that this was a terrible idea. Too narrow to turn around, and too steep to back up, I kept going hoping for better terrain (another terrible idea). Finally, some folks in a homeless encampment helped direct me to a place that I could turn around. What they didn't tell me is that I'd be hub-deep in sand. It was a true test of my Taco's 4WD-low capability and the "off-road" capability of my RPod. Both survived, thankfully, and I made it back to the parking lot where I camped for the night. Lesson learned (kind of .... I'll probably do it again and again).

The next morning, I was stoked to head out for a ride and was up with the sun. The last time I rode here (2014), there was only one trail up and one trail down. Now there are a ton of trails that weave between the ATV roads. It was a good ride, but nothing I'd go out of my way to do again. The best part was finishing a long ride at my camper and immediately making breakfast. I could get used to camping right at trailheads.

New Mexico

Death (updated)

Tour de Camper

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